Air Ventilation Solutions
Serving Seattle and the Greater Eastside Since 1977
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Air Ventilation Solutions in Seattle & Eastside
Fresh Air Is a System, Not an Open Window
New homes in this region have got considerably tighter over the past two decades. Washington has required blower-door testing on new construction since 2009, and the current residential code caps a dwelling at 4.0 air changes per hour. Older houses that have been re-sided, re-windowed or air-sealed have often followed. A tight house holds heat well. It also holds moisture, cooking odours, and whatever else is in the air.
In a climate where the house is shut for eight months of the year, ventilation stops being optional. It is how a well-sealed home stays comfortable rather than stuffy and damp.
What ventilation actually does
It brings a controlled amount of outdoor air in and moves stale indoor air out, on purpose and at a known rate, rather than leaving it to chance. Done properly it manages humidity, clears cooking and bathroom moisture before it reaches the walls, and keeps the air in a closed-up house from going flat.
Whole-house ventilation
A controlled, continuous exchange sized to the house, rather than relying on windows and luck.
Heat recovery, HRV and ERV
Recovers most of the warmth from the air being exhausted and puts it into the incoming air, so fresh air does not mean a cold house.
Kitchen and bath exhaust
Spot ventilation where the moisture is actually produced. Correctly sized, properly ducted, and vented outside rather than into an attic.
The Moisture Problem
WHAT IT LOOKS LIKE
Condensation on windows through the winter. A bathroom that stays damp long after a shower. Musty smells in a closed-up room. Mould appearing at the top of exterior walls or behind furniture. Windows that fog on the inside on a cold morning.
A family of four puts roughly two to four gallons of water into the air every day just by living — showering, cooking, laundry, breathing. In a house that no longer leaks air freely, that moisture has nowhere to go. It condenses on the coldest surfaces it can find, which is usually a window or an exterior wall, and that is where the trouble starts.
An extractor fan that is undersized, ducted badly, or venting into the attic instead of outside will not solve it. Neither will opening a window in January. This is what ventilation systems are for.
Ventilation and Washington Code
Washington requires a ventilation system in every new dwelling. The state residential code is explicit about it: WAC 51-51-1505, Section M1505.4 states that each dwelling unit shall be equipped with a ventilation system, sets minimum outdoor airflow rates by floor area and bedroom count, and accepts a balanced system designed and commissioned to ASHRAE 62.2 as an alternative path.
On additions and alterations the new work has to meet current code, though how far that reaches back into the existing house depends on the scope and on your local building department. Either way, we handle ventilation as part of the mechanical design rather than leaving it to be sorted out at inspection.
Ventilation Systems and Where They Fit
| System | Where it fits |
|---|---|
| Heat recovery ventilator (HRV) | Tight homes where the priority is fresh air without losing the heat you have paid for. Certified units recover 65 percent or more of the heat in the outgoing air. |
| Energy recovery ventilator (ERV) | Similar, but transfers some moisture as well as heat. Suits a tight house that already runs dry through the winter. |
| Whole-house exhaust ventilation | A simpler, lower-cost route to a controlled air-change rate where a full recovery unit is not warranted. |
| Kitchen and bathroom exhaust | Spot extraction sized to the room and ducted correctly to the outside. Often the fix for a persistent damp bathroom. |
Neither recovery type is automatically right for this climate. An HRV suits a house with a moisture problem — a wet crawlspace, heavy occupancy, persistent window condensation. An ERV suits a tight house that already runs dry in winter, which is increasingly common in newer construction. We measure before we specify rather than defaulting to one.
How We Approach It
Ventilation only works when it is sized to the house and installed so the air actually goes where it is supposed to. That means calculating the rate the home needs, routing ducts properly, and terminating them outside. A well-specified unit connected to poor ductwork performs like a poor unit.
Because we design and install the duct distribution as well as the equipment, the ventilation side is not bolted on afterwards by someone who did not see the rest of the system.
Frequently Asked Questions
My windows stream with condensation every winter. Is that a ventilation problem?
Usually, yes. Persistent interior condensation is the clearest sign that moisture is being produced faster than the house can clear it. It is worth diagnosing properly, because the fix ranges from a better bathroom fan to a whole-house system.
Will fresh air make my heating bills worse?
Not meaningfully, with a recovery unit. An HRV or ERV takes most of the heat out of the air it is expelling and puts it into the air coming in, which is the whole point of the design.
Do I need ventilation if I have a heat pump?
They do different jobs. A heat pump conditions the air already in the house; it does not bring in outdoor air. In a tight home you generally want both.
Can you vent a bathroom fan that currently goes into the attic?
Yes, and the code requires it — exhaust air has to discharge outdoors, not into an attic or crawlspace. Venting moist air into an attic causes exactly the problems the fan was meant to prevent.
Licensed, Bonded and Insured
Family-owned, based in Woodinville, serving Seattle and the Eastside.
WA CONSTRUCTION
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WA ELECTRICAL
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604 682 203
Stuffy, Damp or Condensating?
We will work out what your house actually needs and size it properly.
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